Car Care Blog | Lofton Motorsports

How to Clean a Car Battery Terminal

If you have an old battery or a mechanical failing, that’s probably going to require intervention from an automotive specialist. But if the problem is simply that the terminals on your battery need to be cleaned, that’s something you can do yourself.

Here’s what you need to do to make sure your battery terminals are spotless:

First and foremost, turn off your engine. While cleaning the terminals is a fairly straightforward DIY project, there is still a slight risk of injury. You can avert this risk simply by making sure you have the engine turned off while you work.
Next, loosen the nut holding your negative cable in place; you’ll likely need a wrench for this. Detach the cable from the post. Then, follow the same steps with the positive cable.
Take just a moment to visually inspect your car battery. Specifically, look for any fissures or cracks. If you see any, that means there’s a problem with your car battery that you probably won’t be able to fix on your own; more likely than not, you’re looking at the need for a battery replacement.
You’ll also want to look at the cables and clamps themselves. Again, what you’re looking for is very obvious evidence of wear and tear. If your cables or clamps have big rips or tears, you’ll probably need to have them replaced. These things really can’t be mended.
Assuming you don’t see any of these obvious signs of wear and tear, you’ll want to mix your cleaning solution—one tablespoon of baking soda into one cup of water. Mix ‘em up thoroughly, then dip an old toothbrush into the mixture.
Use the toothbrush to scrub away any signs of corrosion you see on your battery terminals. Don’t be afraid to really scour thoroughly to get things squeaky clean. You may have to soak your toothbrush in the baking soda mixture a couple of times as you keep scrubbing away.
When you finish, use a spray bottle with cool water to rinse off any residue. It is imperative to make sure all baking soda and corrosion is washed away. Then, use an old rag or towel to pat the battery and clamps completely dry.
Use a little bit of petroleum jelly to lubricate the terminals.
Reattach the cables to their correct terminals.

That’s the basic guide to cleaning your battery terminals—but here’s an alternate approach: If you’re on the go and don’t have access to the above supplies, see if you can find a Coca-Cola or a Pepsi somewhere, and pour it over the terminals. Let it sit for two or three minutes, then rinse your battery clean with cool water. Note: You’ll want to follow the same basic safety steps we outlined above, including turning off your engine and detaching the cables.

You wash, wax, and vacuum your car to keep it looking sharp. But have you ever considered cleaning things under the hood? By cleaning your vehicle’s battery terminals, you can actually help the car battery perform stronger, longer! We’ll show you how to clean the terminals and help prevent car battery corrosion in only FIVE steps—with materials you probably already have at home!

5 Steps to Clean Corroded Battery Terminals

Materials

Protective gloves, like dish gloves
Baking soda
Water
Old toothbrush
Rag
Petroleum jelly

Step 1: Mix up your homemade battery cleaner.

The recipe is simple. Mix one tablespoon of baking soda into one cup of water, and stir it together until it’s thoroughly mixed.

Step 2: Undo the cables from the battery and inspect it.

Make sure your engine is off. Pop open your hood and undo the negative and then positive cable attached to your battery. (Turn to your owner’s manual for help on this part.) Then, assess your battery. Buildup, battery corrosion, and grime on the terminals can greatly impact your engine and battery performance. If you notice that the battery case is leaking, swollen, or bloated, skip the cleaning and head straight to your nearest Firestone Complete Auto Care for a new battery. Yours is on its way out!

Step 3: Dip a toothbrush in your cleaner and start scrubbing!

Grab an old toothbrush, dip it in your baking soda cleaner, and start scrubbing the terminals. This will take a little bit of elbow grease and you’ll need to continuously clean off the toothbrush as you work. Clean the terminals thoroughly, until all of the buildup has been removed.

Step 4: Rinse off the residue with water and dry.

After you’ve removed all of the corrosion and dirt from the terminals, give the battery a quick rinse. Fill up a spray bottle with a bit of water and spray down the terminals. If you don’t have a spray bottle, you can also wipe everything down with a damp rag. Then, use another rag to dry the terminals completely.

Step 5: Rub petroleum jelly onto the terminals and reattach the cables.

Once the terminals are dry, dab a bit of petroleum jelly onto them. This will lubricate them, help prevent further corrosion, and help strengthen the connection. Reattach the positive and negative cables, and you’re all set!

Keeping your car battery clean can help get things moving when your car won’t start and battery flow is weak. Staying on top of your battery’s charge is crucial to avoid getting stranded. Stop by for a free battery test at your convenience! Our technicians will let you know just how much “life” is left in your battery so you can hit the road with peace of mind – and a new battery, if necessary!

3 years ago / Leave a comment / 3 Likes

Why Is My Car Leaking Oil When Parked?

It is often said that changing the oil is the single most important thing you can do to take care of your car. Nevertheless, it is something that many automobile owners delay—and the results of procrastination can be dire.

The purpose of oil is to cut down on friction within your engine. When you have high quality, clean oil that is doing its job properly, it means the components of your engine are working well without rubbing together and causing corrosion. Over time, though, oil becomes contaminated and loses its viscosity. In a word, it gets dirty. And when that happens, it loses its ability to prevent friction—which means the components of your engine will literally be wearing each other down, causing erosion and potentially significant mechanical failings.

Common Signs of Oil Leaks

One way to know that you’ve gone far too long without an oil change is that oil is leaking from your engine. One of the most typical signs of oil leak is seeing a puddle of greasy-looking brown liquid under your car, after it has been parked for a while. (By contrast, if the liquid is pink, it’s transmission fluid; if it’s green or orange, it’s coolant.)

However, many vehicles today have shielding underneath, which will most likely catch the oil before it hits the ground. That can hide a potentially major oil leak. In this case, a low oil level indicator will be your sign of leakage.

An engine covered in oil is also a pretty good sign of leakage. Open your hood every once in a while, and check your vehicle’s fluids. You will be able to notice if the oil is leaking or seeping from several places. Last, but not least, when oil is leaking, it can get in contact with hot engine surfaces, which means it will burn, and you’ll be able to smell it.

But What Causes Oil To Leak, Exactly?

Usually, it is due to degraded engine gaskets or oil seals. Sometimes these components will erode over time, but more likely than not, if you have this kind of leak, it’s because you have old, dirty oil—perhaps because you have not had your oil changed recently enough.

Damaged Oil Gaskets or Pans

Your vehicle’s oil pans and gaskets can easily be damaged by road debris since they are located at the bottom of the engine. Rough roads can lead to a hole which will cause an oil pan leak. The pan’s gasket usually suffers a lot of wear and tear, or it can also get damaged, which leads to an oil gasket leak.

Incorrect Installations

It may happen that one of the gaskets that keep oil inside is Improperly installed. Most commonly, this happens when the oil pan gasket or valve cover gasket are over-tightened. It can also happen when tightness is not evenly distributed. Another reason can be the improper attachment of the oil filter, as the engine oil flows continuously through it, and if it’s loose, you can experience a leak there.

Bad Rings or Valve Seals

Leaking rings or valve seals can also be contributing to your car losing oil. However, if there are no holes in your gaskets, the oil will not make it outside the engine, so you won’t notice it, as it will get burned up in the combustion process.

Regardless of the specific cause, it is urgent to stop an oil leak, so take your vehicle to the Meineke shop immediately. Following the oil leak, you may encounter the smell of burnt oil, followed by blue smoke and ultimately some major damage to your engine. Do not delay in addressing this issue.

3 years ago / Leave a comment / 0 Likes

Wheel Bearing Warning Signs

You already know that your car cannot function safely or properly without good, sturdy wheels. What you may not know is that the wheel is far from a simple component. Actually, there is a lot of complexity that goes into the design of a wheel, and several components that must all be integrated together.

A good example of this is the wheel bearing. Wheel bearings are critical for your wheels to work together—specifically, for the hub, tire, and assemblies to work harmoniously. They are also prone to abuse, which is why it’s essential to know the warning signs. But before we go deeper into bad bearings, symptoms, impact, and costs, it’s equally important to understand what it is.

What is a Wheel Bearing?

A wheel bearing is a set of steel balls held together in a metal ring, called a race. At the center of your wheels, there is a hollow piece of metal, called a hub. The wheel bearings fit tightly inside this hub, and ride on a metal axle shaft, helping reduce friction when the wheel spins.

These are different from the engine bearings, as there is no constant source of lubrication for the wheel bearings, which means they need to be tight enough to keep away water and road dust. They also support the entire vehicle weight while driving, which is why they suffer a lot of abuse from rough roads, potholes, as well as lateral forces when turning.

As with most automotive components, the wheel bearing can eventually give way to wear and tear, and may even need to be replaced. How will you know when it’s time for a wheel bearing replacement or at least have your vehicle looked at by an automotive professional? Pay attention to some of the key warning signs of a bad wheel bearing.

How to Tell When Wheel Bearings Go Bad

Ball bearings are the most common type of wheel bearings used today (along with roller bearings—though the latter don’t have the versatility of the ball ones). Other types include tapered roller bearings, mainly used for trucks, and precision ball bearings, designed for intense radial loads. Regardless of the type your vehicle has, the warning signs are the same, specifically a bad wheel bearing sound.

Here are just a few things to keep in mind:

First and foremost, listen! The most common and most easily identifiable symptom of a bad wheel bearing is an audible one. If you notice a grinding or grating noise coming from your wheel or tire, take note that this is very likely caused by a bad wheel bearing—especially if the noise gets louder as the vehicle accelerates.
Another revealing sign of bad wheel bearings: A car that feels loose as you drive it. Looseness can be difficult to convey, but basically, it refers to steering your car and finding that it seems less responsive or less precise than usual. Loose steering is not always due to a problem with the wheel bearings, but it very often can be. Sometimes the wheel bearings can become worn down, which causes them to loosen within your wheel assembly.
A related phenomenon is pulling. When you drive, does the car go where you tell it to or does it seem like it has a mind of its own, veering in a particular direction? Again, this is not always because of a problem with the wheel bearing, but that can certainly be a culprit.
Finally, pay attention to your tires. Rotating your tires regularly can help prevent wear—but if you find that you have extremely uneven wear, you may want to have the wheel bearings looked at.

How to Distinguish Bad Wheel Bearing Noise

Humming Noises: There are many sounds coming from a vehicle that are reason for concern, so it’s important to differentiate between them in order to avoid misdiagnosis. Noise can be misleading: a humming noise while driving can be caused by several different issues, starting with your tires, but it can also be the wheel bearing or CV joint.

Squealing & Growling: The classic sounds of a bad wheel bearing are cyclic chirping, squealing and/or growling noise. You can also tell that the sound is related to wheel bearings if it changes in proportion to vehicle speed. The sound can get worse with every turn, or it can disappear momentarily.

Rear Differential Noise vs Wheel Bearing Noise: Howling noise that solely occurs during deceleration is a pretty good indicator of loose pinion-bearing preload. If the howling happens under acceleration at different speeds, then it’s probably worn out gears. However, overly worn out bearings tend to make a howling noise as well, when they don’t support the gears correctly. They also tend to make a rumbling sound when turning.

3 years ago / Leave a comment / 0 Likes

Anti-Lock Brake Problems and Repairs

Anti-lock braking technology is standard on virtually all new automobiles, and is one of the most essential things your car offers to keep you and your passengers safe. As with any automotive system, though, it requires regular maintenance and upkeep, or else it ceases to do its job properly—the results of which can be devastating.

In this post, we’ll give some overview on how anti-lock braking systems, or ABS, work; what makes them stop working; and what you can do to keep yours in good working order.

ABS Brake System at a Glance

While there are some technical complexities to modern-day braking systems, ABS is pretty simple at its core. Basically, there are sensors on each wheel that detect when you encounter a slowdown or a skid. This briefly causes the wheels to stop rotating, which makes it easier for you to control your vehicle and steer it out of trouble. ABS technology helps you avoid danger when the roads are slippery, icy, or wet; only on snow- or gravel-covered roads can ABS come up short. Essentially, ABS will automatically slow your vehicle before you even have a chance to apply your brakes, which means more control and decreased braking distance. Of course, this is all assuming your brakes are working as intended.

ABS Problem

Of course, this isn’t always the case; over time, you may encounter some issues with your ABS, and it’s important that you quickly troubleshoot them and begin the necessary repairs. You may notice that there is an ABS service light on your dashboard. This light will briefly come on when you start the car, but should go off after a moment. If it remains illuminated, then your car is telling you there is a problem with the anti-lock braking system. Crucially, this is rarely a problem with the brakes themselves. More often, there is a malfunction with one of the sensors. This is most often caused because the sensors become contaminated, either with dirt or with metal shavings. It is also possible that the problem is a malfunction in the sensory wiring; usually, this happens either due to driving through extreme environments, or by major neglect of your braking system. For those who take care of their brakes and get their vehicle serviced regularly, this is not a very likely occurrence.

Maintaining and Troubleshooting Your ABS

The best way to avoid problems with your brakes is to have them inspected regularly; you might make this part of your routine maintenance cadence, along with tire rotations and oil changes. Trained technicians, like those at Meineke, can let you know if there’s any work that needs to be done to clean or repair your sensors.
If you do experience problems, such as that ABS service light coming on, make sure you take your car in for servicing quickly. Your brakes are far too important to neglect. Your safety hangs in the balance!
To schedule an ABS service call or routine maintenance, contact your local Meineke service center right away.

The anti-lock braking system on a vehicle is an additional safety feature found on many modern vehicles. The ABS system is designed to help prevent wheels from locking during heavy braking situations, preventing the vehicle from skidding or hydroplaning. The ABS system is made up of the ABS module, and ABS sensors at each wheel. The sensors detect wheel speed, and will send a message to the ABS module to rapidly pump the brakes when it is detected that the vehicle is skidding or has lost traction.
When the ABS system is not functioning then loss of traction, skidding, and hydroplaning are far more likely to occur under heavy braking conditions. The ABS system on most vehicles is usually designed to give you plenty of warning signs when there is any trouble with the system. Being aware of these warning signs, and addressing the problem as soon as they arise will help ensure that your ABS system and vehicle remains functioning for maximum safety.

1. Unresponsive brake pedal

In certain cases, depending on the model of vehicle, when the ABS module fails, the brake pedal may become unresponsive. This is an obvious problem, as an unresponsive brake pedal will not stop a vehicle, or will not be able to do so in an adequately safe manner. In most cases, this will happen slowly, over time. Usually the brake pedal will become increasingly hard to press until it is no longer responsive.

2. Brake pads require more effort to push

When all components of the braking system are working properly, the pedal should require very little effort. It should be very easy to press down on, and once pressed should have an immediately noticeable effect in slowing the vehicle down. If you start to notice that over time the pedal requires increased effort in order to achieve the same amount of braking force, then that may be a sign of a possible issue with the ABS module.

3. The ABS Light is on

The most common sign of an issue with the ABS system is the ABS Light coming on. The ABS Light will show an amber color, and is the equivalent of a Check Engine Light, except it is only to diagnose problems with the ABS system. Older vehicles equipped with earlier ABS systems may not have an ABS Light, and may use a Check Engine Light instead. If the ABS Light comes on then that is a sure sign that there is a problem with the ABS system.

4. The brakes are locking up

When it is functioning correctly the ABS system is designed specifically to prevent the wheels from locking up during heavy braking, preventing loss of traction. However, there can be certain instances where a faulty ABS module can behave erratically, causing your brakes to lock up even under normal driving conditions. If you are experiencing sporadic behavior from your brakes, such as random clicking noises, and/or pumping of the brakes, then the ABS module may need to be replaced.

4 years ago / Comments are closed / 2 Likes

All Season Tires Vs Summer Tires

When debating between all-season tires vs summer tires, the differences between the two types can be easily misunderstood. Depending on your vehicle, driving conditions, and personal preferences, one may be a better option than the other. When choosing between summer and all-season tires, it helps to understand the benefits and limitations of each.

ALL-SEASON TIRES

An all-season tire offers a balance of capabilities, providing acceptable performance in wet and dry conditions, as well as traction in snow.

Built for the average driver, all-season tires have moderate tread depths and rubber compounds that are engineered to provide longer tread life than summer tires, which have shallower tread depths. All-season tires are offered in many types/models, sizes, load capacities, and speed ratings for use on a wide variety of vehicles from economy cars to sedans to mini-vans to pickup trucks. They tend to provide ride comfort, handling, and other performance attributes suitable for most drivers.

All-season tires perform well in warm weather, but they may offer less grip than summer tires, sacrificing some steering, braking, and cornering capabilities. This trade-off is necessary for all-season tires to be able to provide acceptable performance in light winter conditions and provide longer tread life.

All-season tires are capable of providing traction in winter but are not the best tire to use in extreme winter driving conditions. Drivers who encounter extreme winter weather may want to consider switching to snow tires in the winter.

Because all-season tires offer a blend of summer and winter performance, they are often a good option for drivers in moderate climates and driving conditions.

SUMMER TIRES

Summer tires are ideal for high-performance vehicles and are built for speed and agility. They offer increased responsiveness, cornering, and braking capabilities. This is typically attributed to specialized tread patterns and rubber compounds that allow for improved precision on the road. The tread patterns of summer tires have less grooving and put more rubber in contact with the road. They are designed to provide maximum road-holding grip. The tread compounds of summer tires are designed to remain more flexible, allowing for better traction and grip. Summer tires may have shallower tread depths that allow for more stability when pushed closer to their limits.

Dimensional characteristics (such as the tire’s width, aspect ratio, and rim diameter), speed capability, and other design features make summer tires more suitable and capable for increased performance in wet and dry conditions on high-performance, sports-oriented vehicles. Surprising to some, summer tires such as our Potenza S-04 Pole Position provide better performance in wet driving conditions, thanks to unique tread patterns that help evacuate water and resist hydroplaning.

When it comes to winter driving, all-season tires may be more suitable, given their blend of summer and winter performance capabilities, but we recommend considering making the switch to winter tires to get optimal traction and performance in extreme winter conditions.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT TIRE

Choosing the right tire isn’t as simple as mounting a set and never looking back. When contemplating between summer and all-season tire, consider your driving conditions, the climate you live in, and performance needs.

It is best that all tires on your vehicle are the same type of tire – such as winter tires, all-season tires, etc. Your vehicle’s tires should meet the manufacturer’s recommended size, speed rating, load capacity, as well as any other recommended specifications.

4 years ago / Comments are closed / 2 Likes

All Season Tires Or Winter Tires?

It’s time to get some traction.

At any time now, snow could fall over a broad swath of America, and that means your tires need to be checked.

Experts say if the rubber is worn, you could slide, crash or get stuck, even in a light snowfall. Depending on where you live and how badly you need to get someplace in bad weather, you might want winter tires. All-season tires might be an option, but they won’t start and stop as well in ice and snow.

Experts say late October is a good time to shop for tires and get them installed so you’re ready. Here’s how to figure out whether you need new tires and tips from experts on what kind of rubber to buy:

Check the tread depth: Stick a quarter into the tire grooves at several spots with George Washington’s head upside down. If you can see the top of Washington’s hair, you have 4/32 of an inch of tread or less. That means it’s about time to replace your tires. You may have a little time left in warm, dry weather, but tires with less than 4/32 won’t grip well in ice and snow. People used to use a penny to check tread depth. But if the top of Abraham Lincoln’s head can be seen, that means you’ve only got 2/32 inches of tread left. “At that point, most tires are basically worn out and need to be replaced immediately,” says Gene Petersen, tire program manager for Consumer Reports, which does extensive tire testing.

Winter or all-season? It depends on where you live, how urgently you need to be somewhere in the snow, and whether your vehicle is 2-wheel-drive or all-wheel-drive. In an area with moderate snowfall, you probably can get by with all-season tires, especially if you can wait for plows to clear roads before going anywhere. Generally, But to the north, where heavy snowfall is more likely, winter tires will be better. If the engine powers all four of your wheels, good all-season tires may suffice. Generally, winter tires on a two-wheel-drive vehicle grip better than all-season tires on a four-wheel-drive vehicle. Experts say all-wheel-drive makes a big difference starting off in the snow. But it won’t help you stop in snow. That’s where winter tires come in. They’ll stop faster in slippery conditions because they grip ice and snow better due to specially designed soft tread compounds. In bad weather, winter tires grip almost like they’re being driven on dry roads.

Read the reviews: If you decide to go with all-season tires, make sure you read test reports and consumer ratings. All-season tires vary wildly in their ability to grip the snow, The gap from good to bad is staggering, you should stick to well-known brands for the best performance. If you choose winter tires, also read reviews. Tire Rack’s tests show less of variance between snow tires from different brands. Deeper grooves generally mean more snow traction, but you can’t always tell performance from looking at a tire. Although winter tires have improved, they still compromise dry-pavement handling for snow and ice performance.

Replace all four tires: Putting snow tires on just the two drive wheels can make your car difficult to handle in snow and ice. When two wheels on one axle grip better than the other two, it creates a handling imbalance that could be treacherous if you’re trying to stop quickly or steer around something. Those are the situations where you need your car to work best, an emergency situation..

The price: Snow and all-season tires generally cost about the same. Consumer Reports found that sedan tires average around $145 each. SUV tires average $178 apiece. Shopping around could get you a better deal. Make sure the price includes mounting and balancing.

Buy early: Experts say now is the time to buy, when there’s time to do research and there’s an abundant selection of snow or all-season tires. If you wait until the first snowfall, you might get stuck with what the dealer has on hand in the size that fits your car. But don’t buy too soon: We recommend installing winter tires when the daily high temperature is generally below 50 degrees.

4 years ago / Comments are closed / 1 Like

How Often Do I Need A Tire Rotation?

You care about your car and know it’s important to have your tires rotated at regular intervals. You also know that getting this done evens out tire wear, which means better handling and traction for you. But what exactly are “regular intervals”? Learn how often you should get a tire rotation, what’s typically involved in the service, and how it can save you from having to buy new tires down the road. That’s more money in your pocket for the things you care about!

How often should I get my tires rotated?

About every 7,500 miles or 6 months.

Most vehicle manufacturers recommend that you get your tires rotated approximately every 7,500 miles or six months. However, some vehicles are exceptions and it’s always best to refer to your owner’s manual. This number can change depending on how, where, and what you drive. Simplify things by making it a habit to get your tires rotated every time you get your oil changed.

What is involved in a tire rotation?

Tires are removed, swapped, and remounted.

Tire rotation consists of switching the front and rear tires. It’s crucial to do this because the drive tires (i.e. front tires in front wheel drive vehicles) work harder than the others. If you don’t swap them out, these tires will wear down faster. By rotating your tires, you distribute the burden among all four tires and ensure they wear down evenly. Take a look at the tire rotation pattern below and you’ll see! At Firestone Complete Auto Care, our expert technicians remove, swap, and remount your tires so they live longer and drive safer.

How do regular tire rotations help me?

By helping you save money and drive safer.

Regular tire rotations reduce your risk of various tire problems—most obviously, tire failure or blowout. By regularly rotating your tires, you’ll be less likely to experience those, reducing your risk for an inconvenient and even potentially dangerous situation. Tire rotations also help improve traction and fuel efficiency by ensuring your tires wear down evenly. This increases the lifespan of your tires, meaning you’ll save money in the long run.

Getting your tires rotated is key to getting the best performance from both your tires and your vehicle. If you can’t remember the last time you had your tires rotated, there’s a pretty good chance they’re overdue for this important service. Make an appointment for a tire rotation at Lofton Motorsports today! We’ll get you rotated and rolling in no time.

4 years ago / Comments are closed / 4 Likes

Spring Into Vehicle Maintenance With This Checklist

Now that winter is just a memory, millions of Americans will take to the roads to enjoy the warmer weather. It’s time to perform some Car care spring is the perfect time of year to make sure your vehicle is ready for the upcoming travel season.

Whether you’re driving across the country or driving across town,

Exterior:

Wiper blades play an extremely important role in increasing visibility. Replace every six months or when cracked, cut, torn, streaking or chattering.
Check the tires. A simple test to check tire tread depth is to insert a penny into the tread of the tire. If the top of Lincoln’s head sticks out, your tires are starting to show signs of wear and should be replaced. Also, check the tire inflation and inspect the tread for uneven wear, which could indicate the need for a wheel alignment. Also look for bulges and bald spots.
Give your car a good washing from top to bottom. Use a product specifically made for automobiles. Always clean the tires and wheels before washing the body, and don’t use the same mitt for both.
If you find minor paint damage, cover the paint chips as quickly as possible. For a quick fix until you can get some touchup supplies, dab a little clear nail polish on the scratch.
Spring is an excellent time for waxing, which not only protects the finish but also makes subsequent washing easier. Before proceeding, make sure there are no foreign particles on the paint.

Under the Hood:

A good rule of thumb is that a change of season equals a change of oil. Changing your car’s oil and filter every three months or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first, will ensure that your car operates at peak efficiency.
Get a tune-up if necessary. As part of the 21st Century Tune-Up on today’s modern vehicles, the following systems should be inspected: battery, charging and starting, engine mechanical, powertrain control (including onboard diagnostic checks), fuel, ignition, and emissions.
Check all fluids. There are several fluids that require attention, including engine oil, power steering fluid, brake and transmission fluids, windshield washer solvent and antifreeze/coolant. The antifreeze/coolant should be refreshed every two years.
Check hoses and belts. A belt that fails can affect the electrical system, air conditioning, and power steering, as well as the cooling system. Cooling system hoses may be deteriorating from within, so old hoses and clamps that appear to be in marginal condition may need to be replaced.

Under the Vehicle:

Spring is a good time to check the entire brake system, including brake linings, rotors, and drums.
Check the shocks or struts for signs of physical damage, such as leaking, rusting, or dents. Also be aware of the warning signs that you may need them replaced: vehicle rolls or sways on turns, front end dives when braking, rear end squats when accelerating, vehicle sits lower in the front or rear, a loss of directional control during sudden stops, and the vehicle bounces or slides sideways on a winding and rough road.
If you notice any fluid puddles or stains under your vehicle, it is a good idea to have it inspected. There are several fluids that can leak from the vehicle including antifreeze/coolant, battery acid, brake fluid, clear water, diesel fuel, engine oil, gasoline, gear oil, power steering fluid, shock and strut fluid, transmission fluid and windshield washer fluid.

Lofton Motorsports offers inspections and all vehicle maintenance for your needs! Come visit us and we’ll make sure you’re safe on the road.

4 years ago / Comments are closed / 2 Likes

5 Tips to Remember for Driving Safely in the Rain

Singing in the rain is fun. But driving in it? Not so much. Driving in light or heavy floods, or even just rainy, stormy conditions can be anxiety inducing. According to the U.S. Department of Transportation, there are on average more than 950,000 automobile accidents each year due to wet pavement, resulting in approximately 4,700 deaths and 384,000 injuries.

Being behind the wheel with a rain-splattered windshield doesn’t have to be a white-knuckled, nerve-racking experience. Tips and techniques for driving in a downpour:

Think. Many people drive subconsciously, out of habit, when it rains, people often don’t adjust their thinking. When conditions are less than ideal, drivers need to stay alert and focused on what’s going on around them.
Turn on those headlights. It’s the law in all states to turn on headlights when visibility is low, and many states also require having the headlights on when the windshield wipers are in use. Well-working wipers and relatively new (not threadbare) tires are must-haves when driving in rain, especially when driving at high speeds on the highway.
Beware of hydroplaning. Hydroplaning is the technical term for what occurs when your tires lose traction with the road due to excess water on top of the road. The result is that your vehicle begins to slide uncontrollably. It’s easy to hydroplane: all you need is one-twelfth of an inch of rain on the road and a speed of more than 35 miles per hours. If your tires have extensive wear and tear, you are more highly likely to hydroplane. You can hydroplane even if you are driving a four-wheel drive car, SUV, or truck.

If you start to hydroplane, let off the accelerator (gas pedal) slowly, and steer straight until you regain control. If your car starts to spin, turn your wheel in the direction that the vehicle is spinning, slowly. Do not turn your wheel against the direction it has begun to spin. Do not jerk the wheel sharply in one direction or the other, as you could flip your car due to over correction.

Consider taking a driving course through your local DMV to learn how to drive safer on wet roads and better avoid hydroplaning.
Turn off cruise control. Ironically, on rain- or snow- slick surfaces, cruise control may cause you to lose control. You might think it’ll help you stay at one steady speed, but if you hydroplane while you’re in cruise control, your car will actually go faster.
Slow down. Speed limit signs are designed for ideal conditions, which means driving when you have little traffic and good visibility. That’s hardly the environment you’re driving in when it’s raining. So, let up on the accelerator and allow more time to get to your destination.
Be extra cautious with merging lanes. Motorists should drive defensively and take precautions when passing vehicles to prevent merging collisions.

Extra precautions might help ease the anxiety associated with driving in the rain, making it safer for everyone. If a crash does happen, make sure you know the steps to take after a crash.

4 years ago / Comments are closed / 0 Likes

After Auto Accidents: Mobile Help and Quick Tips

People looking at scratches on car after accident

Although no two auto accidents are alike, there are preparation and post-accident steps that every driver should take — Here’s what you need to know:

Before an auto accident…

Remember ABP: Always Be Prepared.

Print a copy of your insurance to keep handy
Stash a copy of your insurance card and registration in your vehicle.
Keep a camera handy to document any post-accident damage. If you don’t have a phone that could be used for this purpose, consider spending a few dollars on a disposable camera to keep in your vehicle.

After an auto accident…

Ask yourself: Is anyone hurt? If so, immediately contact emergency services for help.

Always call the police, no matter the severity of the accident. If the accident is minor, you may be asked to file a police report on your own, which you should do.

Get out of the way, if you can.

If the vehicles are drivable, move them to a spot on the shoulder or otherwise out of the way of traffic.
Turn on your hazard lights and set up emergency cones, if you have them.
Get out of the vehicle, unless it is unsafe to do so.

Record all the details.

Ask other drivers to share their details, too. That information will be needed once fault and financial responsibility are established. Make sure to record if they are the car owners.
Take notes about what you remember of the accident, and take photos, too.
Ask for and keep a copy of the police report.

What happens next:

Call your insurance company to begin the claims process. Coverage levels and determination of fault will help outline who is financially responsible for repairs and other costs, including medical bills.

What you should never do:

Don’t try to assign blame.
Don’t sign anything from anyone other than the police.
Don’t leave the scene.

4 years ago / Comments are closed / 3 Likes

What to do When Your Car Is Faded

Protecting your skin from harmful UV rays at the beach is a given for us humans. But those same UV rays can also damage your car, causing it to fade over time. You likely don’t think about your car’s paint job until it starts to get noticeably lighter. This is due to the oxidization from the UV rays of the sun. On top of that, extreme weather due to snow, hail, high winds and rain can all have an impact on the hue of your car — not to mention the critters that can really do a number on your paint job.

Here are some tips on keeping your car’s paint job looking new year after year:

Come up with a washing schedule: Prevention is key here, so the best way to protect your car from the sun and environmental damage is to keep up with a consistent washing schedule. Praying for a rain storm isn’t going to help. You need a good clean that can protect your top coat from existing and future damage. Top coat is like sunscreen for your car, and keeping it as clean as possible is like giving it SPF 50 protection. However, that top coat is also the most vulnerable to sand, salt, snow and acid rain.

Restore the paint job: Once fading begins, you may think it’s too late to be saved. Not true. You will have to break out the elbow grease but restoration of your paint job is absolutely possible. First, you’ll need to thoroughly wash and dry your car, then use a clay bar to remove the junk that’s contributing to the dullness factor. Clay is designed to “fix” a contaminated surface — one that is plagued with tiny bumps in the paint that can detract from its smoothness. All that embedded debris can cause small imperfections in your finish that the clay bar can pick up and remove, says Dr. Beasley’s. Doing this will provide a prime surface featuring a tighter seal to the wax making sure it looks better and lasts longer.

Polish after claying: The clay bar is great, but it’s no substitute for polishing your car. Do this in a shady area, out of direct sunlight. Make sure your car is cool to the touch and not hot. Work in small, concentrated areas and always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Normally, you would use a foam applicator but once light oxidization and fading has occurred, it’s best to use a microfiber applicator pad for car polish application.

Wax your car regularly: If a clean top coat adds an extra layer of protection for your car, adding wax gives you yet another protective layer that prevents dirt from harming your car. Not only does it make your paint job look beautiful and shiny, it can give you a whole new level of SPF protection that can complement the efforts of your washing schedule.You have four types of wax products to selection from: liquid, paste, spray and wipe-on, wipe-off. The paste and liquid formulas seem to work the best when a car is faded or oxidized car paint. Ideally, you should wax before the winter, then keep up with maintenance every two to three months.

Take it to the pros: If all of the above methods don’t work and your car’s finish is too badly faded, oxidized or damaged, you may need a complete paint job. Whether as part of collision repair or a simple desire to get your paint job restored, professionals have the right equipment, tools and paint to bring that luster and sheen to your car that you miss so much.

Contact Lofton Motorsport’s In Tulsa

Located conveniently on Tulsa, OK. Lofton Motorsport’s is your first choice for paint restoration, collision repair and auto body work. Contact us at (918) 747-7566 to schedule an appointment

4 years ago / Comments are closed / 2 Likes

How Paintless Dent Repair Works

Paintless dent repair, known for short as PDR, is an environmentally-friendly way of repairing a vehicle that has been in an accident. Essentially, it’s a method of restoring a vehicle’s body to a factory-like condition within a smaller time frame and at a fraction of the cost of full-on auto body repair.

Because it’s a much less invasive process for dent repair, it is designed for small to medium repair needs. Larger dents and issues will require auto body repair, panel removal, etc. Technicians skilled in PDR use state-of-the-art technologies to get beneath the vehicle’s “skin” and gently coax dented panels back into position without making scratches or compromising the paint job. It’s ideal for addressing damage caused by hail, dings, creases and small dents.

The PDR process involves the technician first assessing the damage, then gaining entry to the dent and taking a closer look. Finally, he or she will apply slow pressure to work the dent out.

How Does it Work?

Let’s go into more detail on the steps discussed above.

Damage assessment is the first step. This allows technicians to see the extent of the damage and determine if PDR is indeed the right way to go. Between 80 and 90 percent of all dents are able to be removed through PDR. Then, the technician will prepare the area around the dent before attempting the repair.

Next up, it’s necessary to gain entry to the dent, which is typically from the back side, necessitating the removal of body panels, tail lights and even interior panels in some cases. Essentially, the technician has to create a pathway to the dent area.

Your technician will use a special light to gain visual access to the area, which gives off a shadow. This helps the technician know precisely where the tools should be placed to massage the area back into its original position. This slow pressure takes some time and precision.

Most times, PDR can be done on the same day you bring your car in. Of course, the exact time frame will depend on the dent’s severity and how hard it is to access it.

Paintless Dent Repair vs. Traditional Dent Repair

Traditional dent repair involves filling dented areas with paint or body filler, to be matched to the rest of the exterior. This can make your car look like new, but it still doesn’t offer a sustainable, long-term solution. In addition, it’s more costly than paintless dent repair, more time-consuming, and negatively impacts the re-sale value of your vehicle.

With paintless dent repair, there is no need for fillers or sanding. For minor repairs, PDR is a quicker, more cost-effective alternative all the way around.

Contact Lofton Motorsport’s in Tulsa

If you require our services for paintless dent repair in and around Tulsa, contact us at (918) 747-7566 or visit us In Tulsa.